I rescued the old nag and nursed her back to health as best I could without using any rust remover other than Freeze Off penetrant, naptha, mineral oil and a brass brush. The reason I ask is because I have an old Schrade NY 881 that someone rode hard and put up wet. You said it was gentle, which I am assuming means “it doesn't remove half the steel along with the rust like Naval Jelly”. I am quite curious about this oxalic acid that you mentioned for rust removal. (All of my male relatives will get a battery of knives including a Case 63087, a Schrade 5OTG, a Schrade ST1 and one “from somewhere else” knife.) I was immediately taken by it and started acquiring a few more for myself and for Christmas gifts. Indeed I do! In fact, it was your discussion of your “new” 5OT some while back (when you were seeking “Goldilock's lock back”) that led me to get one. ![]() Regarding gentle rust removal, a trick we use when restoring old bike parts is to soak rusted bits in oxalic acid, I've had better luck with this than naval jelly and the like. ![]() Long water rinse and then WD40 (to displace the water, not to lubricate) followed by oil of choice. I soak the parts, brush out with a stiff toothbrush and repeat. WD40 with a light scratch pad/steel wool is often the first choice for light surface rust, but I go to a oxalic acid bath for tougher deeper rust, especially when you can reach the rust with anything other than a brush. Regarding gentle rust removal, a trick we use when restoring old bike parts is to soak rusted bits in oxalic acid, which is sold as wood bleach in most hardware stores. It's my favorite all purpose polish for restoring old bikes. Regarding patina removal, I find that Blue Magic metal polish takes it off in a snap. I'm a sucker for the look of a nicely polished edge next to a blade with patina. Russell, don't you just love the 5OT! Mine is in my pocket today. Perhaps there is a chemist among us who might offer some insight.Īny way, try the vinegar and oil/0000 wool bit to play around. It contains mercury (in some form), and mercury has long been utilized to extract relatively stable metals such as gold, silver and palladium, as well as to amalgamate other metals. I have no real understanding of how it works, though I suspect it is a redox reaction. It flat out removes the finish from blued steel.Ĭlearly it works on some forms of rust (like bluing) but will not work much on ferrous oxide. ![]() It removes stains from SS blades and works (without marking) to remove patina from polished CV blades. That is a nifty product! It is marketed for lead and carbon removal from gun barrels and cylinder faces. I have also used Lead-Away cloth to remove the patina if I was dissatisfied with it. I sharpened it up, oiled it and placed it in the EDC rotation. I then used breakfree oil on 4aught steel wool to even out the darker spots. After removing all the residue (no polishing at all) I simply soaked it in white vinegar for 30 or 40 minutes. Shown is what was a rather pitted and tipped 5OTG that I cleaned with a brass brush and mineral spirits. I am no knife-wrangler like the obvious pros here, but I have had some success with forced patinas on various blades using vinegar.
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